Manual illustrates i7 as an example for the installation. Go Installation manual Size: 2. Manual illustrate i5 as an example for the installation. Manual illustrate i7 as an example for the installation. Discontinued Products. Show all Show less. Need more help? If you'd like to know how to remove the heatsink and CPU, jump ahead to page 5. Table of Contents. Thank you. RSS Newsletter. Beginners Guides Cases and Access.
Privacy policy and Terms of Use. Filed under: Beginners Guides. External Mfg. I am building my 1st system today. Would not having the thermalright be a huge difference?
You'd be fine with the stock pushpins.. Mine is hanging on just two pushpins two broke.. No, not if you do the installation correctly. If you follow Jacque's instructions, you should be okay. Not only is the stock cooler setup horribly designed, but I see many people forget to turn the pin once it is depressed so it "locks" in place.
How could Intel come up with such an abortion? A very simple behind the board mounting bracket and 4 screws is pretty simple and just as cheap, but far easier to install and stronger. When you install the stock cooler, the four pins should already be in their locked position. And that, friends is why I don't even bother with the pins. You can do it both ways and it'll work, but that just makes it more prone to being done incorrectly. A good mounting system should only work one way. I think that they've always been driven by the concept of a tool-free mounting, or at least a screw-free mounting.
And it's both AMD and Intel. That's my theory at least. I'd assume that some OEMs dislike the idea of a bolt-through heatsink because it probably changes the workflow in an assembly line too much the CPU and heatsink must be installed prior to mounting the mainboard in a case, unless someone and why doesn't someone designed a mainboard tray with a cut-out to allow access to the rear of the socket.
Well, I did my intel install last night and it was ok. It took some extra pushing to get the last 3 pins through and it looks ok and secure. The socket A had a terrible design - the actual clip attached to the socket, rather than a frame which was secured with holes.
I think that the Intel chips of the time also had the same problem late Pentium 3's. Not only was it a real bastard to get that thing on and off, especially with a larger HSF it was easy for the screwdriver to slip and knock off a couple of resistors in the general area but as the coolers got more exotic I remember a g copper version it wasn't too uncommon to peel the whole socket from the mobo while moving a case.
Good times. You kids today with your bolts and levers don't know how good you have it. I am so glad that I ignored the stock cooler on my E and used the Thermalright Ultima The bolt-through mounting felt so much more secure and easier to install than those push pins.
Socket A was the first major design which gave you two choices: Some boards from what I understand, it was a mandatory item in early design specs, but became optional later had four holes in a standardized location, as well as the socket tabs. If you mounted, say, a Zalman or some of the other top-end stuff of the time, you needed the four holes, but most of the stock and inexpensive aftermarket stuff used the tabs.
Technically, Socket A, , and 7 had the same basic tabs. I had a great time slapping a Socket A heatsink on my Socket 7 K the hot-running 3. Socket sometimes had one extra tab on each side of the socket, and A had a pair of extras on each side, but a lot of sinks never used them.
The plastic hooks the socket A used weren't very durable. I remember chipping one installing a Thermalright heatsink, I can't imagine anyone thinking using a heatsink that used one hook was a good idea, especially since the Athlons of that time had no thermal protection. If the heatsink ever lost contact, your processor would quickly burn out. Bolted or mounted to a plate that is bolted, or no go. I'm very surprised to see so many forum members with post counts in excess of a thousand who have negative opinion about the boxed Intel cpu heatsink mounting system for socket T.
I like the socket T mounting system. It's the easiest consumer user removable heatsink mounting system I have used. It's not recommended to mount the heatsink with the motherboard outside of the case. If the user chooses to mount the heatsink outside of the case I agree it is easier to access the mounting pushpins. But the user must place the motherboard on a soft surface to allow the pegs to lock through the board.
If the user tries to install the heatsink on a hard surface the mounting pegs are more likely to be damaged. Where I work when new equipment, tools, etc. This is the socket T processor and heatsink instruction manual. It is the manual included with retail boxed socket T processors.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. The stock Intel pushpin cooler can be tricky to install. A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures. To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard. The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the direction of the arrow, counter clockwise as far as they can go.
If you want, play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work. Place the cooler so that all 4 pins are oriented over the holes in the motherboard. Push down on the entire cooler so that all 4 pins are through the motherboard.
When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place. Then the other pair. If you push them in one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight. This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard must be out of the case to do the job. It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly. If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins clockwise to unlock them.
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