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Remember me. Install new tensioner. Start motor and adjust. My experience so far miles? The bike did get slightly quieter. Fuel economy and all other aspects are the same. Perhaps the engine is a touch snappier but that could definitely just be in my head. Other details: - There are two models from APE. The normal one, and the Pro version. The pro version looks better and comes with an O-ring. The normal one works just fine but isn't as pretty and requires a gasket RTV.
Thanks for posting this volcanised. Very detailed. Tighten it 'til it strips then back it off half a turn. Remind me, is the Kawasaki warranty 1 or 2 years? Originally Posted by Simoncrp. I added this on your bike stand pic god knows how it ended up with a tensioner. Last Edit: Oct 21, , Here you go Kes. Thank you. It is important that the slack cam chain does not jump a tooth on the cam sprocket during the swap.
Use the zip-tie as shown to snug the chain around the sprocket. Now remove the stock cam chain tensioner and wipe away any dirt or oil. Using the razor blade, remove any gasket that is stuck to the block. Be careful not to cut into the aluminum with the razor. Pull the new and improved tensioner out of its package, and show all of your friends. Install the new tensioner starting with the gasket. Torque the two mounting bolts to manual specs. Begin screwing the tensioner bolt in gently until you can feel the resistance on the cam chain then stop.
Remove the zip tie.
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